Last year my wife and I made this Princess Mononoke Costume for our daughter barely in time for Halloween. I just recently noticed I posted to social media but never posted here.
The mask was made with paper mache and paper clay, coated with plasti dip and then painted by MrsRedBeard. The ears, knife and spear were made with foam matting, coated with plasti dip then painted. The fur was a bath mat that MrsRedBeard found, on Amazon I think, which was way cheaper than buying it from a fabric store. The knife handle was made from a ping pong paddle and the spear handle was made from a paint roller handle.
The dress was found at a discount clothing store for very cheap. MrsRedbeard modified the dress, sculpted the necklace with polymer clay and made the fur into something wearable.
Here’s the next update to my non osha rated poor man’s Workbench. I setup my circular saw for the modular workbench. Here’s a link to part 1.
So last time I mounted the jigsaw. I used it this time to cut out the slot for the circular saw and yes still need to put a new blade in the jigsaw. I started off by zip tying the jigsaw trigger. Safety First!
I sketched up a template in CAD and used spray adhesive to adhere it to the one of the blanks I made last time. I drilled a pilot hole then used the jigsaw (still with a dull blade) to cut out the pattern.
I used 2 existing holes in the saw to mount the saw square. Then I drilled a 3rd for stability. I counter sinked the bolt holes but the screws are not prefered due to the large heads but they’re what I had a box of.
Woops the saw motor sticks out too far to fit. I will make an extra cut out in the bench that can be inserted and removed as needed. I also noticed while using the jigsaw that the corner leg to the workbench sticks up a bit too high so I’ll be using a metal cut off wheel to trim it down.
As you will see I don’t have the steadiest hand when it comes to a jig saw nor do I have a ton of room and I have a limited budget so I decided to build a modular workbench. I wanted a scroll saw functionality, a table saw, belt sander and a vacuum former. I had an extra jigsaw, a belt sander and a circular saw.
While some of my skills need work I did draw all of my plans up in a CAD software to avoid measurement issues. If you have any suggestions please comment below.
I started off by cutting a 8 1/2″ x 11″ hole out of my workbench. I decided on a 8 1/2″ x 11″ hole because it is the size printer I have, it fits several tools and this is going to be for working on small projects. The inner line is for the 1/2″ frame that will hold inserts.
I did a terrible job cutting out the hole with a jigsaw and the blade was dull but it got the job done.
The frame will sit below the hole and provides a 1/2″ lip to hold inserts. Wish I had a nail or brad gun.
The module insert frame bolted in place. I did at least counter sink the screw holes. I will had 4 more bolts before calling it good.
Module inserted and extra bolts installed.
Extra module blanks cut out and ready to go.
First module is a jigsaw. I made a template and cut out a hole for the blade (not perfect) then drilled holes to mount the jigsaw to the module. The bottom of the jigsaw has a plate that can be removed. I used these screw holes to mount the saw to the board.
Jigsaw mounted to modular insert and extra module inserts ready to go.
If you want help fixing your device or want me to do it please contact me.
Wismec Reuleaux RX200S Blank Screen Fix
A reader sent his RX200S, after reading the rx2/3 fix, hoping I could fix a blank screen issue.
Hooked up to PC where the firmware tool successfully detected the device. Went ahead and updated the firmware to V4.13. This let me know there wasn’t a processor issue.
I disassembled and checked connections. The ribbon cable seemed loose.
Used a heat gun to reflow the ribbon solderings. Got info on the display but it was very dim. The issue still persisted but the ribbon cable definitely needed this because it was separating from the solder.
After poking around at the surface mounted resistors near the ribbon traces I found that bridging two of the resistors the screen came to life. My untested assumption is that one of the resistors went bad and bridging them brought the screen back to life.
Reassembled and tested again. The resistance of the coil reads the same on 2 devices and the wattage to run the coil is equal between the 2 devices. Good to go.
Try this at you’re own risk and understand I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong.
I took the numbers and using c# output them into 2 different ways to generate frequencies to output as tones. First method was simply multiplying each number by 100 to get the frequency in playable range. The second method was converting each number to binary then getting the sum of the ones within each binary number, a method found to be used for storing music information.
If you want help fixing your device or want me to do it please contact me.
With no drops, no overheating, 2 batteries in use and a lower power user the Wismec rX2/3 started throwing a Check Battery error. I did not have the proper hex bit to do the existing standard fixes so I came up with a new fix.
To test if this is the fix for you connect a piece of wire to the 2 points below with batteries in and attempt to fire the device. If the Check Battery error does not appear then this fix should work for you.
The new fix bypasses the cover connections. With that said the note that this fix has not been checked against using 3 batteries so use at your own risk. I apologize for not taking pictures during the repair so I have illustrated over pictures posted on the net by others. Credit for original images at end of post.
Solder a wire between the 2 points circled in yellow and shown connected in red. Beauty of this fix is that you can test without the back cover. Once the new wire was is in place I reassembled with everything working.
If you use this fix contact me and let me know how it turned out.
Try this at you’re own risk and understand I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong.
I’ve always wanted to have and build a Geiger Counter. This doesn’t mean I want to start experimenting with radioactive materials, I just have a general interest. At most I might collect items from thrift stores that measure higher than normal amounts of radiation. At most I wouldn’t mind sputtering the radioactive metal onto glass slides.
Found some tutorials but the most appealing to me was one built by tanner_tech featured on HackADay.com recently that utilized a 555 timer and a step up transformer to get the 400V. 400V across the tube allows gamma rays or beta particles to start the ionization completing the circuit.
After settling on a design I purchased 3 Russian Geiger tubes CI-3BG / SI-3BG from ebay link here. They sent me 4…. Win!
I want to take this one step further and have the data output to a screen and log that data rather than just make noise. So the end result will be an Arduino or Raspberry Pi to control the Geiger Counter. I just need to learn the best way to take the 400v pulses and turn that into something a microcontroller can safely read. If you know the best way to do this please contact me.
After a few corrections to the circuit to level the voltage to a consistent 400V I believe I’m ready to begin building the initial geiger counter. That is after I get a few other projects out of the way. Being able to simulate the circuit, as shown below, was a huge help.
1x 555 timer
2x 47k resistors
1x 22nF capacitor
1x 2.2nF capacitor
1x 1k resistor
1x 8:800 ohm transformer
1x Any N-channel MOSFET
2x 1n4007 diode (on regulator)
2x 100nF 500 volt capacitor (on regulator)
4x 100 volt zener diode
1x Geiger tube (in simulation I’m using a lamp)
If built from scratch, buying parts in small quantities each unit is estimated to cost around $12-$15 so not bad at all.
There are many different types of RC cars on the market today, that come in all different price ranges and can do all kinds of different things. In this instructable, I will not only be showing you how to build an RC military truck kit that I recieved in the mail, but how to build your own DC motor... By: tanner_tech
Have you ever started a printer, and heard the various sounds it creates? Wouldn't it be awesome to create a whole instrument that plays these retro printer sounds on actual printer parts? Well, you're in luck. In this Instructable, I will show you how to build the Stepper Motor Keytar. This rec... By: tanner_tech
When you think of a way to heat up a metal object, you think of fire -right? Fire is an inefficient, old fashioned, and slow way to heat up metal objects. It wastes lots of energy as heat and creates lots of dirty smoke. Well, what if you could have a way to heat up metal objects that solves all ... By: tanner_tech
A lot of the power supplies that you see on the internet that can only supply 12 volts do not pack very much power. They can only supply a few amps. Some of my projects required a lot more current than most ATX or other bench power supplies could handle! What if I told you that you could build an... By: tanner_tech
Fidget Spinners are little plastic toys with a bearing in the center. They are fun for a little bit, but get boring after a while due to their slow spinning speeds. There are ways to make them spin faster, but these methods involve using a bulky air compressor or an expensive can of compressed air... By: tanner_tech
Electrons: they are all around us, but we cannot really see or interact with them. Luckily, there is a device that will let you. A cathode ray tube, or CRT, is a glass tube with electrodes on either end. When there is a vacuum drawn and a high voltage across the two electrodes, a cathode ray form... By: tanner_tech
Most people are familiar with 3 states of matter being solid, liquid, and gas but a lot of people are not familiar with the 4th. The fourth state of matter is plasma defined as an ionized gaseous mixture consisting of highly charged positive ions and free electrons (negative charge) that result in little or no electric charge. The amount of energy in each state of matter increases as you progress. Plasma is typically created at low pressures or at very high temperatures. Believe it or not plasma is the most common form of matter in the universe. [taken from definition, wiki, and general knowledge]
Examples of plasma are neon signs, CFL bulbs, lightning strikes and probably what I’m most interested in Fusion (the sun). Uses of plasma can be found in the manufacturing of electronic components such as semiconductors, metal plating of glass/silicon/etc, mineral extraction, ion propulsion and one day a very clean and efficient energy source.
Plasma conducts electricity and can be manipulated with a magnetic field. These properties are at the core of what I want to accomplish with the plasma chamber.
Experiments for the chamber
Small scale plasma accelerator
Plasma sputter plating of metals on to glass
Ion drive simulation
Magnetic containment fields
Effect of plasma being pushed through a coil
Plasma being formed with various gases and/or particle filled gases
Custom waveguide antennas to concentrate energy for various applications
Effect of electricity being applied across plasma
Effect of shooting electrons through plasma
Find a way to manipulate power and frequency of RF signal
There’s a lot of in-depth overview random basic RF information. With that said I don’t mind getting into the details because this information will help keep me safe while I perform experiments in the future.
A magnetron generates large amounts of RF energy and emits that energy as an antenna pumped through a wave guide. Most microwaves transmit/operate at 2.45GHz. Unless something is wrong with your microwave or you have taken it apart like I will be doing the RF energy, 2.45GHz, transmission is contained within your microwave using a Faraday cage. On your right is an example of a crude Faraday cage. While crude this mesh size would probably be safe to use for 2.4GHz.
A microwave oven works by pumping a lot of RF energy into an enclosure where it bombards the molecules of food or whatever you have put in your microwave. This RF energy is not in a straight line but is guided through a wave guide then and then bounced off the metal walls of the inside of the microwave. The RF energy then vibrates the molecules which creates heat. This is like when you rub your hands together (friction) and they get warm but on a molecular level. What I don’t want is my molecules to get vibrated.
The Faraday cage is made up of the mesh in the window as well as the metal case which share a chassis ground. The mesh in the window blocks the the RF because the mesh size is smaller than the wavelength of 2.45GHz/2450MHz/2450000000Hz. If the mesh size is lower than the nominal wavelength the mesh should be effective. Look at the list below to see what the wavelengths in size is. For this project I plan on using the RF blocking glass that I obtained samples of from Viracon which is way different than a Faraday cage but same principle. You can see the article I linked to but I also included an image here.
Full Wavelength = 12.23643cm/122.3643mm = 0.1223643m
Half Wavelength = 6.118215cm/61.18215mm
Quarter Wavelength = 3.0591cm/30.591075mm
You can calculate the wavelength using the formula 𝜆 = c/𝑓 or 0.1223640816326531 = 299792000/2450000000
𝑓 = frequency in hz, c = speed of light in mps 299792000, 𝜆 = Wavelength in meters
N5JLC is my math right?
So basically if my mesh is smaller than 30mm, if I’m right, I should be protected. I plan to use the glass but if needed I will use hardware cloth.
In order to protect myself and nearby electronics I want to monitor external and internal RF to ensure there is not leakage. RF Meters in general are not that difficult to build but ones that cover the 2.4GHz range require a bit more than a germanium diode and multimeter. In short you’ll probably see a 2.4GHz RF Meter project coming soon. Below are some RF Meter projects but if you know of any please let me know.
Normally I throw together a project with rough notes, research along the way, then after half attempts/failures I get around to cooking that down to a post on here. This time you will get everything. With this project I will be posting my ideas, planning, results of research and the project in stages. Here’s my initial idea written out and some really rough ideas thrown on paper. This has been a project I’ve been wanting to do for some time now and have been talking about it forever.
Roughed together a drawing of my ideas and what I think will work for this project. No measurements in mind while throwing ideas on paper.
What I want is a chamber with viewing windows to see the plasma when it’s created. In addition to the view windows and enclosure I will need a power supply to drive this thing.
Took my drawing and opened SketchUp with considerations for what measurements I do have. As I type this staring at my digital drawing already considering separating the power supply making it usable for other projects in the future. It would be cool to have a high voltage isolation transformer for things like a Jacobs Ladder or an arc furnace.
Regardless of the power supply what I have in mind here is the plasma chamber with viewing windows which are 12 inches square. I plan to have a microcontroller monitor and remotely turn on or more importantly off the chamber.
The main chamber will have the magnetron from a microwave mounted inside of it with a metal housing around it and it’s electronics to protect them. The antenna portion of the magnetron will rest inside a waveguide (horn) that points at the center of the chamber. This directed energy will excite particles creating plasma. I probably need to consider a way to draw a vacuum inside the chamber for later experiments.
I plan to use parts of the original microwave casing and sheet metal for the housing. If I need more material I might scrap old PC cases. To help minimize RF leakage I am considering using aluminum duct tape and angled aluminum.
Need to look at the manufacturer specifications and double check my work but I think this how the magnetron wiring is done minus the existing controls.
PreRelease Late Night Edit – Remember how I said I’d share everything? Well do you see where on the capacitor I have an element leading to an X? I think I already screwed up and that is supposed to be a diode going to chassis ground.
I also have this crazy idea in the back of my head thinking of using pulse width modulation to have greater control of the RF output. That may be total non-sense but the implications could maybe be cool.
RF meters will be needed to monitor interior and exterior RF levels. I plan to build at least 2 of them and will post that project soon. I will post more about the RF energy in my next post of this project.